New Mixed Routes in Ghost

A while back (early January) I had a great day out with my close friend Roger Strong from Seattle. Roger had a couple of broken ribs and sucked up the pain to join a brother out in the hills. Haven't used the drill in 4 years or so. Forgot how much fun creating a sport route can be.

Details below:

Roger and I did a new route and fixed up an older bolt line in the Ghost....
Both are quite high quality and bolted well. See photos.

We did two lines to the left of Candlestick Maker and right of the
Hooker. The one on the left (direct) had 5 existing bolts, the last having a bail biner. Not sure if this variation was completed but if it was, this year the ice was higher. We added 3 more to reach the ice,
cleaned the shit out of it and redpointed in at M7. Starts with an easy
but thin vertical ice smear for 3 meters, then a crux leaving the bench
after that to pass the 2nd bolt. Grade 4 ice to finish to a V-thread.
Until someone speaks up we could call this one:
"The Unknown" M7,25m

The other pitch is a stellar 8+ that starts in the
obvious seem 8m to the right. Pull through two powerful bulges to gain
delicate face moves and blobs of ice to join the other route at it's 5th
bolts (8 bolts total to the ice).
"The Berger" M8+, 25m

These routes are worth dooing and can be linked up with some great ice routes.



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