The Complex World of Sport M-climbing

Went out 'M-Climbing' last Sunday for the first time of the 05/06 winter climbing season. Hiked to the far end of the Stanley Headwall with a big crew with ideas of getting insanely pumped, as this type of climbing allows, and for all- round 'debauchery' , which is status quo when a bunch of blokes head off into the woods with large quantities of medieval paraphanalia.
Although I am proud to have flashed a fairly difficult route, 'Miller Swiller M10-' (seen here) I can say that I validated certain points in the 'style' issue regarding this type of climbing. See 'spurs are for horses' www.gravsports.com

I started up this 'hard' route fully expecting to get my ass kicked. I had just finished getting seriously pumped on a much easier route called 'Thriller' which I had done easily many times before in previous years. Obviously I was out of practice or shape or some combination of the two.
Several moves into the send of "Miller Swiller" , with quickly failing arm power (due to the horizontal nature of the route) I realized a bright orange dagger sticking out the back of my boot. A quick inversion and I was resting with my head dangling well below the lip of the roof. Now I was fighting a neck pump more than a bicep pump. Feeling proud, as it was the first time doing this type of climbing since the Ouray Ice Fest last January.....I also felt a bit sneaky. It felt kinda easy.. I then proceeded to get my ass kicked on a much lower angled m9-ish route next to the harder one I had just succeeded upon. I couldn't use my spurs on the slightly overhanging wall in comparison to the horizontal roof of the 'harder' climb.

Consensus....Have fun and challenge yourself as you wish but....
Spurs definitely make the big roofs WAY easier and I can see how this would become boring after doing a bunch of it. For me the most interesting climbs will be on the 20-45 degree overhanging routes with big moves....Where spurs are not an asset.

Photo:Geoff Creighton