9.13.2010

The Beta on the new Petzl-Charlet Ice Axes


I have been getting a bunch of questions about the new tools so thought I would post some info. (I am the sales rep and used them all last year)

New Nomic has:
- teeth on bottom of griprest, for piolet canne
- a more positive griprest when in the large position
- slightly larger grip. ie: the middle position on the 'griprest' now fits a bigger hand/glove.
- some grooves on the griprest for more friction with the pinky finger
- hammer/adze compatible
- 2 new/slightly different pick options: The 'ice' pick and the 'dry' pick. Both are 3mm at the tip and 4mm further back and are T rated. The big difference is the Dry pick has 'torquing teeth' on top and a few extended teeth on the bottom to prevent skating off big holds.
- With the new picks you will be able to add a hammer to the old Nomic. You won't be able to retro the new griprest onto the old tool.
- if you want to get the hammers and new picks for your old tools I would put a request in with your local shop soon and then they can get extra delivered with the new tools.

The New Quark:
- super light, a bit shorter, and similar clearance to the old Quark.
- Will replace the old Aztar and Quark.
- Almost everyone I let use this tool said it was the best swinging tool they have ever used.
- Swings similar to the old Aztar or Aztarex but has more clearance and better grip.
- My 'go to' tool for WI 5 and below.

Ergo:
-tons of clearance
- Drytools amazing and ice climbs really good on steep ice.


Couple general things:
- All three tools will have the exact same head and there will be 2 picks that accommodate the whole range.
- Gear Up Sports in Canmore will be getting all the tools that you can rent for a day and try them out before you buy.


Cheers,
Rob

3 Comments:

Blogger Bill said...

Thanks, Rob,

Appreciate the accurate beta.

Also, what are your thoughts on mixing tools? Many of us can't afford 2 new tools but want the advantages of, e.g., the big clearance of the New Ergo.

Will it be frustrating to combine a New Ergo with less aggressive tool?

12:43 PM  
Blogger Rob Owens said...

HI Bill,
I think I would stick with two of the same tools if possible. Some people will take two different types of tools in the alpine ie: one with a hammer and more technical along with a less technical tool and/or longer tool that will plunge into snow better. I climbed a alpine route last week that had climbing up to WI4 M6 and my partner brought one Petzl Sumtec and one BD viper. I bugged him about it but it seemed to work :-) Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions. What tools do you use now?

11:38 AM  
Blogger adtv12388 said...

IS VERY GOOD..............................

11:29 PM  

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